PaintRack is an Android & iOS phone/tablet app I discovered a few years ago ago, used a little bit, then during a reorganization of my chaotic painting bench remembered the existence of. This little review has sat in my Drafts folder for a couple of years, but it’s worth hitting publish on because the app continues to be really solid and useful!
The core of PaintRack is a paint library/inventory system to help you track which paints you own. It comes pre-loaded with a huge library from dozens of manufacturers, and can use your device’s onboard camera to scan the barcodes on your paint bottles to make creating your inventory as painless as possible. The free version will only scan one bottle at a time, but the paid version has a feature called RapidScan that lets you do a whole batch of scanning then update your inventory all at once. The paid version is only a few bucks, I highly recommend the purchase!
My inventory screen, with Reaper selected as that’s my main paint supplier.The RapidScan barcode scanner in action.Sets – the painting notes utility. Mostly used for WW1/WW2 stuff that has to be vaguely uniform in my case, apparently…Color Tools, figuring out which random Vallejo colour I don’t own is close to something I do own.Part of the Setting page – the app has a “backup to our website” option just in case you bork your phone. Have used that at least once…
PaintRack is actively working with various paint manufacturers to get their lines into the app, so if you’re Kickstarting the latest celebrity painter’s private line of paints the app probably already has their stuff available.
It isn’t just wargaming or model paints like Vallejo, GW, or Reaper in the onboard inventory, there’s art supply companies like Windsor & Newton and craft paints like Deco and Apple Barrel listed too, which means it can be useful for scenery painting or for those of us who branch out beyond just the game store paints.
There’s a Sets tool that’s basically a notepad for painting schemes that links into your inventory, and a set of Color Tools for developing colour schemes and picking paints for your inventory that are close matches to paints you don’t own (very useful for trying to follow other people’s painting tutorials!).
PaintRack also has a Wishlist shopping list feature, potentially very useful if you’re standing in front of a massive wall of paint at your favourite local hobby store trying desperately to remember which weirdly named colour it was you were missing at home! I think it’ll also tie into your Amazon account for online purchases, but I don’t give Noted Sociopath Jeff Bezos money if at all possible so I haven’t explored that part of the app.
For the past year I’ve been building some modular fantasy/medieval city tiles for our Sellswords and Guilders games. It has been a long process of building as I’ve chosen the hardest method possible – laying the cut foam stones individually. But I finally have a full 2′ x 2′ square of them done. The impetus this time was our local move into Mordheim and yet another competition – this time the quarterly painting competition on Bloodbeard’s Garage Discord, which had a theme of “unfinished”. Talk about the ultimate un never finished project!
Building the tiles
As with my other modular boards, these are all based on 3D printed Open Lock tiles. I then used my Proxxon hot wire cutter to cut a few different sizes of tiles. I tested two initially: 1/8″ and 1/4″. Ultimately, I liked the look of 1/8″ (as did my wife, but she thought it was nuts).
First test tiles
I also made a 2nd change early on – for the sidewalk I moved from just 1/4″ cubes to a mixture of 1/2″ squares, 1/2″ by 1/4″ rectangles and 1/4″ cubes, always tessalated so that no two of the same touched fully on their long side.
Original style in the upper right, new style in the other pieces
After a lot of work, I had bits and pieces of a table, but certainly nothing enough for even a 3’x3′ (our standard board size). After a hiatus, I got moving again. I also switched glues – from standard PVA to Aleene’s Tacky, which sped up production. So I planned out my initial 2′ x 2′ planned out (well, sort of, I tweaked it almost immediately):
Initial layout2nd layoutFinal layout
One of the pieces I’m most proud of is the curved road section. I was (w)racking my brain to figure out how to make it look good, thinking I was going to have draw lines at angles, but then I realized I could just lay the stones outward from the inner curve.
Outer curbs laidFully laidPainted but not yet dirty
And then, a few (a small number, really) of hours later, I was finished tiling:
Construction done
Painting
For painting, I started simple – a coat of craft black paint mixed with white glue (and a bit of wetting agent to make it flow better), and then airbrushed on some thinned Vallejo Black Surface Primer (a hateful paint if I’ve ever used one).
The first black primer, to tie to all togetherTaping the edges prior to painting
I then re-watched RP Archive’s inspiring city tile video again and decided to follow his painting and weathering method as much as possible. I highly recommend it – it certainly inspired me in my project.
To start the colour, I airbrushed a neutral grey (Demco Artist acrylic) onto the cobblestones and linen (Folkart craft paint) onto the sidewalks. This is also when I noticed I’d left one 1″ x 3″ piece in the painting box. Oops.
Grey cobblestone base layer (with new tiles in the upper right)Whole board painted
Next up I highlighted some of the cobblestones with a dark grey (Army Painter Gravelord Grey Speed Paint) and light grey (Reaper Paint Misty Grey mixed with a satin glazing medium). I wasn’t too fussed about painting exactly here – there were multiple additional layers of paint and weathering coming to hide any issues.
With highlighted cobblestonesOnly cobblestones, not sidewalk, were highlighted
And then a white dry brush across the whole thing:
To finish off painting, I did a black-brown wash. Unlike RP Archive, I did it a bit heavier in pigment – 6 drops of carbon black, 3-4 of burnt umber and 3-4 of sepia in 50ml (all were Liquitex acrylic Inks). It took ~100ml to coat the full 2′ x 2′ board.
Washed tiles on the left, unwashed on the right
And then we get onto dirt. Here I also differed slightly from RP Archive. I had a dark brown grout, so I mixed it 50/50 with dirt, which I sieved with a 1/4″ chicken wire, then baked for a few hours and then sieved a second time in an old tea strainer. This left me with a very fine powder mixture of dirt/grout.
To apply the dirt, I tried the method he suggested in his video but found it didn’t work for me. So I changed it up:
Sprinkle on dry
Spray lightly with watered PVA + wetting agent
Use my fingers to smear the damp mixture around the tile
Dip my hand in water, thoroughly soak the tile
Use a towel to clean off the tile
Repeat 4 and 5 until I was happy with the level of dirt
I left a fair amount of dirt on the cobblestones, especially in the corners and in deeper pockets, and almost none on the sidewalk pieces. I found the grout and dirt dried almost instantly, so by the time I was finished all the tiles, they were dry enough to take outside and soak in watered PVA to seal them in. I’m going to have to do a 2nd coat, as some of the dirt is still a bit loose.
Comparing dirty (on left) with just painted (on right)Very dirty process of dirty-ing up the tilesDirty tiles 1Dirty tiles 2Dirty tiles 3
Lastly, I had punched a bunch of leaves using an AliExpress leaf punch (non-affiliate link – I used the 05 colour). I dried some straight and soaked some in glycerin first, then dried. I found the glycerin ones were slightly translucent and showed the tile through them, so I’ll use them for something else (I’m going to try dyeing with inks and fabric dye next). Note that some of the colours were lost as they were dried, which was a bit unfortunate but expected.
Punching leaves from leaves.
I glued them down on the edges where leaves would naturally blow to, a truly finnicky process as the dried leaves were quite stiff. I tried soaking them in watered down PVA, but that didn’t seem to help – although I suspect I could rehydrate them by soaking them overnight. Some definitely will still lift (and have), but they are trivial to replace.
Leaves glued in the corners
Painting the Statues
For the statues, I painted them fairly simply. They were both on foam plinths or backgrounds. They were base-coated along with the tiles.
The bleeding eyes girl was quite simple – dry brush various greys on her and her plinth, along with some thinned greys for the streaks. Her eyes are painted with Reaper Fresh Blood.
For the Ganesh statue, I painted the statue itself with Reaper Old Bronze and then found Army Painter’s Verdigris Technical Paint, which I applied in a couple of coats. It works, but honestly this paint job is a bit simple and for larger statues I’d want to follow something like Garden of Hecate’s excellent tutorial. For the stone backing, I tried some stippling and washes, but ultimately went with sponged on greys and whites.
The Tree
The tree is fairly simple – a bunch of pipe-cleaners twisted up and then melted, with a texture paint (in my case, a DIY texture paste of brown paint + sawdust). It isn’t done, but eventually am going to try and match some of the look here:
Finished Look
And just like that, this 2′ x 2′ set of tiles was done.
The finished tiles
But of course, I need a lot more, especially if I want to get a full 4′ x 4′ Mordheim table done. So the next set is already underway:
Well, maybe not. The next set already underway, aided by Halloween candy.
We love a good coop skirmish game, playing a lot of Sellswords & Spellslingers and dabbling in quite a few other games. And we both love gunpowder fantasy, so the mixture of the two, with a horror twist in Devilry Afoot was too good to pass up.
What is Devilry Afoot? Let’s let the author introduce it:
Devilry Afoot (2024) is a folk horror monster-hunting handbook for tabletop skirmishes.
Set during the 16th and 17th century Wars of Religion, Devilry Afoot pits flawed human heroes, controlled by one or more players, against the creatures of the night whose actions are randomly determined by the game’s easy-to-use mechanics.
Designed for solo and co-operative play, the RPG-lite character customisation, scenario driven narratives, and unpredictable monsters combine to ensure that no two games are ever the same.
Wargames Vault description
We played two scenarios: The Dance Macabre and Wolves in Sheep’s Clothing. Both were brutally hard, starting off deceptively easy. All in all, the whole two games took about 3 hours, including creating characters.
Dance Macabre
Your goal is to stop a graveyard from spawning revenants, of which only a single one starts on the table (but many more spawn in quickly). As this was our first game, we only took 3 characters (1 each).
We quickly learned that although only two monsters started on the board, bad dice luck in 1st turn by Sean had his follower run off from being scared by the spectre & his character does nothing with poor activation rolls.
The objective was simple enough, get a character into the graveyard, say scripture 3 times. But given new revenants spawned on a 1, 2 or 3 on their movement or fight rolls, we were quickly swarmed under. One after another of us went down, until only Sean was standing, and then it was over.
We decided to roll Out of Action rolls anyway, with both Sean and Brian rolling under 3 – dead – and me rolling barely better – a 4 – for Scholar Smthye to acquire a leg injury.
Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing
Our second game we took a bit more muscle – 2 character each (for 6 characters), with Sean and Brian both bringing followers. Here the werewolves appear in a pack of innocents on turn one.
Werewolves were a bit counter-intuitive (turn from werewolves to human to attack, etc). We also had a 3rd werewolf join us – each character has a secret and one of Sean’s had bitten by a werewolf. Which activates if you roll double 1s on their activation. Sean dutifully did so, continuing his dice luck and it appeared right in the back, naturally.
We also had a character run off from the monster’s intimidate check, ironically my Goodwife Smthye who had a bonus to not running away.
Overall thoughts
Overall we all quite like it. Definitely will play again – here’s a few more detailed thoughts:
Good
What did we like?
Activation system was quite fun – randomness as you draw chits out of a bag for monsters, innocents, & PCs, but PCs still require an activation roll like Sellswords or SOBAH to actually do something
Monster and game flavour was great – it really captured the feel of the late medieval/early renaissance ignorance of the world and fear of “things that go bump in the night”
The period flavour of “Cite Scripture” as a PC action, which repels monsters, and the fact that most monsters will (randomly) do things other than mindlessly run forward to attack means that it can be more than just a pure brawl, which is always great.
A permanent injury table is always fun. We have just started playing Mordheim, which has a similar rule. For us, we had two deaths, but my Scholar Smthye gave me a great roleplaying hook for my 2nd character, as his leg injury meant clearly his wife needed to follow along and make sure he didn’t get up to trouble in his foolishness
Small board size – only 2’x2′ allows focused gameplay and means less terrain to build
Small model count – similarly, it had a very small model count. We had less than 10 figures in the first game, and less than 20 in the second. Makes getting into it quite easy.
Change?
Cards instead of chits – rather than drawing from a bag, flipping over cards is faster. Plus you can do some amazing period-style activation cards with illustrated pictures of the monsters
What about Sellwords & Spellslingers?
Could you retrofit Sellswords to use this? Absolutely – switch secrets to negative traits, double monster stats to create a DL, add monster activation rules. The cards would require more work, but that is doable. I may do this at some point, but let’s see.
Final thoughts
Would we recommend? Yes, 100%. It is a good price (~ $10 CAD). Pick it up today at Wargames Vault.
This weekend I have mostly been raising the dead! A while ago Corey and I split two boxes of Northstar Oathmark skeletons and revenants and I’ve finally got all of mine assembled. We’d previously split another box of skeletons, so this gives me a good size horde of angry undead and when combined with Corey’s (eventual) horde it will grow to truly terrifying size!
The Oathmark plastic figures are nicely proportioned, clean sculpts, and clean casts. I mixed some GW skull box and Frostgrave extras into a few figures for variety, and then used some leftover bits to create more weird undead constructs!
Three regular skeletons and a necromantic construct mixing two Oathmark skeleton bodies, a bunch of limbs, and some GW skull box skullz.
First five revenants, all straight from the Oathmark box.
The large necromatic construct in all it’s weird shambling multi-limbed glory! I don’t have particular rules in mind for this thing, I just wanted to build something cool and weird. We’ll house-rule it once it hits the table.
Necromatic construct from another side.
Left, a necromatic totem of some sort – broken weapons and skulls. The other two bases I’m calling “scuttlers” – little necromatic constructs of spare limbs and skulls. Scouts and messengers for an undead force, maybe? Weird little dungeon nuisances? Both?
An in-progress photo of the horde, before finishing the last couple sprues of skeletons and revenants or the scuttlers. The ghoul is a Games Workshop freebie from earlier this year, and really quite a cool little figure.
The final horde!
Total score is thirteen skeletons (surely a lucky number for the undead!), fifteen revenants, five scuttlers, one large necromatic construct, one ghoul, and one necromatic totem/midden terrain piece or objective. And enough leftover bits to make more scuttlers and more totems, if I want.
Finishing up the bases with greenstuff is next, then primer and paint. I did up the previous batch of skeletons in a fairly simple paint scheme which I’ll be copying for these skeletons, and I’ll do something similar but not quite identical for the revenants – thinking they need some purple or green to set them off against the black/red/bronze theme of the skeletons.
After that I clearly need a necromancer and his immediate entourage to command this horde! No concrete plans for that yet but we shall see…
The Queen is the largest Gaslands vehicle I’ve done so far and by far the most complex conversion I’ve done for the game!
She started life as a city busy of some sort, sourced I think from Ali Express by Corey, sat around in his stash for a while, then became mine when I volunteered to make something cool to terrorize our Gaslands games with! She’s true-scale to Matchbox/Hot Wheels cars, so very close to six inches long now that I’ve finished a full post-apoc war bus conversion job.
Planning the Queen. Bus chassic, truck cab, tanker truck parts, and the engine from the dragster.Dremelled the truck apart, first step of construction!The massive front ram taking shape.Flamethrower deck.Armour. Very important.Test fitting some crew, first glimpse of the rear fighting platform.The ram from the front.The tail of the beast.Primed and painting started.Pink? Why not?Weathered, crew installed, other details installed on both fighting platforms.The Queen rolls out! Her first in-game appearance.
Looking for something new to try, Sean and I played a little competitive dungeon crawling in the form of Death in the Dungeon, a quick-play zine-format brawler from Crushpop Creations that came out a few years ago. We both quite enjoyed our 3 quick games over 2 hours, but both felt it needed a bit more.
The game is quite small – only 34 pages that are 5.5″ by 8.5″ in size – so by its nature cannot cover a lot of game. But you get the basics – your PCs have a few stats – Movement, Toughness, Armour and Damage. With 6 races, 6 classes, 3 types of armour and 7 weapons, plus a dozen spells, there is definitely room for tactical variety here.
Stats are based on a d4 through d12 dice system – with the core mechanic of being Power Level (from Class ) vs Toughness (from Armour). Ties go in the attackers favour, which was different (and quite deadly for me, as it happened). Initiative uses a pooled dice of the active PCs Power Level to determine, which was quite a clever mechanic.
Our first game we built to 75 gold and I fielded 3 characters to Sean’s 2 – I had a Human Knight, an Orc Barbarian and a Human Sorcerer (who had no weapons or armour, this was bad). Sean had a Knight and a Barbarian. And he destroyed me in two different games – one a straight fight and one with endless skeletons spawning.
Many, many skeletons kept my team busy with Sean eventually did for it, one member at a time.
Our third game I managed to win, mostly by taking a pair of long-bow equipped mouselings running as Dwarves and a Dwarf barbarian. Ranged without cover is almost always deadly and in this game it was too.
Overall, it was a fun little game. But it really doesn’t lend itself well to just two people playing – there just wasn’t enough chaos. Both Sean and I felt that with 3 or 4, that would have felt right. Given the time it took to run a game, even doubling this to 1 hour was totally doable.
One key challenge with the small page count is the lack of clarity you have. For example, my initial sorcerer had no weapons or armour. Was this a legal build? Can you drink a potion or loot during combat?
Would we play this again? Maybe if we had more people. The quick setup and play time means a game can be done in very little time, even if you don’t know the rules.
You can get Death in the Dungeon from Wargames Vault for $2.99 USD. It has a number of expansions as well, which I have the free ones.
Well, round 1 of the Build Something Competition is done and I have been beat, badly. The vote wasn’t even close. Ouch. Anyway, at least I have a pretty building for my table.
With me out, means I can share some process photos and discussion here. I ended up painting and gluing the building together pieces by piece – paint some, glue some, paint some, just because of the way I needed to paint the inside.
First thing I did was assemble the upper back section (with the walkway) as a separate piece and then paint the inside of it. I also added mud/spackle to cover the 3D printing texture on the lower section and painted the concrete floor (with a few cracks added with an exacto blade).
After that, I added the inside graffiti to both the lower walls and the upper section. After I had added them, I glued the two pieces together and then added some mud/spackle to cover the gaps and then roughly painted it grey. I wasn’t overly worried, as I knew that I was going to be badly painting the inside white again (to partially cover up the graffiti, as if somebody was working to renovate the building).
Assembled back with spackle/mud covering the gap between the foam upper parts and the 3D printed lower bits.
Then I rusted up the hangers and doors. For this I sponged on paint quite thickly – mostly Burnt Umber but some Burnt Sienna and Raw Sienna for accents. This is what gives these the bumpy texture. I would note that the grey paint was not fully dry under the tape here, so I ended up pulling off a fair amount and needing to repaint it. Oops.
Rusty door hangerRusty doors
After that, I glued the front panels on and then the lower walkway (which touched both the back walls and the front walls). You can see the interior has been painted white at this point.
Gluing in the lower walkway, with the inside now painted white.
Once those were done, I cleaned up the front where the joins were to make the grey tones more consistent. I then masked off the green sections and the upper ghost lettering.
The lettering was over-sprayed with Golden’s Shading Grey, a semi-transparent grey that was amazing for darkening things subtly. I pulled off the letters, which were cut out of Oracal mask on my Silhouette, in a random order, spraying a bit more of the shading grey over the whole area each time.
The last bits I didn’t get any photos of, but this is the “draw the rest of the owl” directions:
The green lower sections I added blue stuff to mask off the damaged sections where the exposed rebar was and then sprayed the lower area, hangers and the doors with chipping medium, and then all three with a random mixture of greens roughly mixed in the airbrush. To chip it I used three methods – light sanding, using tape to pull off random sections and water with a brush. If you use water with a brush, you get lighter sections. I ended up putting an undercoat of white on the doors after I tried just straight green, but that wasn’t covering the rust well.
Lastly, I glued in the windows after painting them separately, painted the exposed rebar and then weathered with oil paints. Overall, the painting felt a bit rushed and I should have taken more time. I also missed a bunch of small details that I’d like to get back to.
And voila! The final product:
Oblique angle shotGraffiti detail 1Graffiti detail 2Inside looking at doorsInside looking at walkwayOther main door
7 years ago, at the beginning of my 3D printing journey, I backed a now partially-failed Kickstarter called Precinct 187 from Z1 Design. A few years later the designer and his company stopped responding to messages and as of 2024 have apparently vanished off the internet, save their FB page. At the time, I didn’t even own a 3D printer – I bought the Ender 2 a few months later. Ironically, I’ve actually only ever fully printed a single building from this range – the Blackhollow Pub (not even really part of it – it was a free addon to sell the next kickstarter – Black Hallows Town’s Folk that I never backed).
A few years ago, the creator, Jon, shut down posting in the Z1 group too, which stayed dormant until today and apparently he deleted his FB account, so that meant the group was admin-less. And so a random group member became admin today.
Given Z1 Facebook group is back again, I wondered just how much of the Kickstarter had actually been delivered. Hence this blog post.
Delivered Files
As far as I can tell, here is what was delivered.
Core
Town/City Hall
Fire House
Mel’s Diner
Tenement
Big Joe’s Donuts
L Train
Construction Site
Stretch Goals
Billboards
Block Z (I’m missing these files) Received from a kind soul
Car Park
Cinema
City Bank
Docklands
Docklands Building
Docklands Fish Boat
Docklands Coastguard Boat (I’m missing these files) Received from a kind soul
East Coast Shopping Mall (appears half complete)
Factory
Gun Store (received)
Hotel Empire
Mini Mart
Pawn Shop
Police Station
Prison
Restaurant/Bar
Road Tiles
Subway
Staircases
Street Furniture
Street Barricades
Water Towers
Construction siteL Train – printed (Z1 work – not mine)Fire Station printed and painted (Z1 work – not mine)Hotel EmpireMel’s Diner (Z1 work – not mine)Police StationRoad TilesTenementBig Joe’s Donuts
Stretch Goals & Addons – Not Delivered
To my accounting, here is what wasn’t delivered (I’ll update this if others can correct me)
Wonder World
Block Z This was delivered, I just didn’t get it (now received from kind soul)
Police Station Cell Block & Compound
Post Apocalypic Add-ons
Road Markings
Prison Bus
Security Truck
Roberts Fish Merchants
East Coast Shopping Mall this might have been partially done
Subway Station This was delivered, I just didn’t get it (now received from kind soul)
Z1 BlockWonder WorldPost Apoc stuff
Black Hollow freebies
Blacksmiths Shop
Tavern
Stables
What I’ve printed
Well, in 7 years, not much. The Tavern and a few copies of the dumpster. In a way, you can say that this Kickstarter started my digital pile of shame opportunity.
Z1 dumpster in my scifi tableBlack Hallows Tavern in the lower right
EDIT: I forgot – I printed the donut at 200% size for a Gaslands jump ring
200% Donut!Donut with paint
Did you back the Kickstarter?
Curious what others who backed the Kickstarter thought. Are they happy? Are they missing files as well? I’m happy to help other lost souls with instructions and some of their missing files (within reason, need to be able to prove you actually backed it)
Conclusion
I’m sad this project didn’t finish, as although I’ve never printed the buildings, I have them if we ever seriously get back into moderns. And I feel it would do well today – the buildings were well designed, had clear instructions and would have been perfect for things like Marvel Crisis Protocol.
Anyway, will close by giving a plug to one of my favourite creators, Corvus Games Terrain, who make many similar buildings including an awesome elevated rail (below). And no, that’s not a sponsored or affiliate link, I just like his stuff.
Another year keeps marching on and Build Something 2024 has come to an end and unlike nearly every prior year, I actually finished this year! No pictures of the painted model yet due to the rules, but here are some updates on the construction.
Overall, I managed to only get the warehouse done of the whole set I planned – will have to do the actual landing pad later. But I was happy with where I ended up with the warehouse.
For the warehouse, I ended up with a more “ruined 20th century concrete” vibe than I initially planned, largely because of the design of the windows – rectangular with thin frame pieces.
With that, I switched out a lot of my concept and leaned more heavily into that look. Here’s a few pieces of inspiration I pulled from the internet:
Closed old white metal door in an industrial building
I then decided on a heavy, old-style large doors, with a small door that roughly followed the inspiration above. Both were modelled in FreeCAD and then printed on my Ender 5. The large doors…
FreeCAD design for the large door and hangerLarge door testLarge door hangers glued in place
…and the small door. I first did a test with it printed flat to the bed, which worked. Once I designed the door itself, I tried it vertical. That failed, so I switched back to horizontal and printed it at 0.12 layer height. The white you see on the final image a piece of styrene rod which acts as the hinge.
Small door early testLater test that failedFinal print
After the doors were printed, I moved onto the interior walkway, which by pure accident ended up being perfect height for a figure to shoot out of. I really didn’t plan that at all, but it was awesome. There are two levels of walkway – one at 3″ where the small door opens and the main walkway at 4″.
FreeCAD designFirst test of the walkwayFinal piece, with mesh glued on
And then onto the windows. I ended up printing them twice – the first round I didn’t think were thick enough, so I ended up printing them a second time at double the thickness. I decided to keep the first round windows and used them as external frames, to which I glued clear PETG and styrene too to make broken and boarded up windows.
FreeCAD window designFinished windows
And with all those pieces, the design was basically done! I decided to assemble as a I painted, so this is the final shot before painting:
All the final pieces of the building, not yet assembled.
Onwards to painting, which I can’t show you yet, but here’s a photo of my photo setup. Good photos needs lots of light, so I did just that.
Been doing gaming fairly regularly, had a good weekend at Trumpter Salute 2024 in Vancouver early in March, but apparently haven’t managed to blog a thing in ages.
Here, have a chill painting video in lieu of original content.
Bunch of stuff in progress including a gloriously over the top Gaslands war-bus based on a city busy chassis, which I have been taking a bunch of progress photos of and will try to assemble into a gallery here to show off sometime soon.
Speaking of Gaslands, and somewhat time-sensitive as the Kickstarter closes in 3 days, Fogou Models are running a KS for various Gaslands-scale scenery items. These aren’t STLs but actually physical cast resin pieces. Rad Trax Toy Car Scale Terrain on Kickstarter. The items will likely be available on Fogou’s webstore post-KS, useful for those of us who (say) just had to cough up a home insurance deductible after a plumbing leak and are a bit short on cash…
